It doesn’t take much time as a climber to notice that as you progress, harder climbs have smaller holds, the movement gets more complex, and your fingers start to feel it!
For those who’ve built up a good base-level of hand and finger strength (usually at least a year of regular climbing to make sure your tendons have caught up to your muscles) hangboarding is an excellent tool to target finger strength. When applied properly to your training routine, it can provide an excellent, controlled environment for developing fingers-o-steel.
There are a variety of protocols to follow for this type of training. For beginners, it is recommended to get familiar with the hangboard starting with hanging from jugs or deep slots to build a proper foundation before diving headfirst into crimp training. Too much too fast in a finger training practice can be a fast track to injury so it’s important to take it slow and consult a variety of reliable resources to learn what’s the best program for you.
Keep in mind that finger strength is just one of many factors that contribute to climbing performance. A climber’s repertoire of movement and technique is extremely important.
The best training for climbing is CLIMBING 😉 but if you’ve plateaued and need guidance and encouragement in a group of climbers with similar goals, check out The Next Hex course. Need a little 1-1 training? Our instructors can help you out with that too! Is the hangboard over your head? Just getting started on a rope? Fundamentals of Climbing now available at Hive Heights.
Written by Ricardo Benedetti.